Engagement Project-Fashion in the Urban Mecca of Flushing, New York

I grew up in Flushing before the current landscape that it is now today. When I lived there as a baby to when I was 12 years old, I remember Old Navy was the only name brand shop there. As a result of that, most of my clothes were either from Old Navy or from Korean shops. It wasn’t until I moved to Bayside, where I discovered there were a plentiful amount of food stores rather than clothing stores. To get my clothes, I now have to venture off to Long Island where there are more variety of clothing to chose from.

Whenever I head back to Flushing today, I’ve the options to either go to Queens Crossing or the huge store in Sky view Mall. Both of these malls both offer food and places to shop for clothes and accessories. Sky view Mall is the biggest mall in Flushing, as it features Target, Adidas, Forever 21, and much more. While Queens Crossing is more focused on a laid back approach, featuring dessert and dinner places. The only clothing store that Queens Crossings offers is Mango, which is similar to Zara as they’re both high street Spain retailers.

For this engagement project, I chose Mango as for being a high street clothing empire; a majority of their stores are in Spain. In America, Mango only has five stores in America. The stand alone stores that they have is one in Flushing, and one in Soho. Upon researching the brand Mango, I was shocked to hear that. It’s almost an anomaly for high street brands to have only two stores in America. I even remember going to Mango, the day it first opened in 2008 in Flushing. That’s why it was the perfect selection for the engagement project for the Italian 45 class. It’s a clothing brand that’s not too ubiquitous, and it’s something that I can have fun exploring as well.

As soon as I enter Queens Crossing, I see a bundle of people at Paris Baguette (Korean Bakery) eating desserts or drinking coffee. There are people of all ages, races, and genders either chatting up with their friends or ordering food. Then, as I make my way through the cafe’s, I head straight to the first floor where Mango is located. I immediately notice that there are a lot of people that work there are college aged students and in their early 20’s. The vibe of the store is more chill than the busy food cafes outside the store. The people entering the store are mostly young high school and college students. There are even some middle aged woman trying on some garments in the changing room. 

The clothing in the store is contemporary and modern. All of the clothes are sleek and stylish, as they’re similar in presenting an European sensibility to their clothes. Clothing that’s not garish in their colors, but has some trendy pieces mixed with classic pieces. I immediately took some pictures inside the store of the items of clothing and accessories I found desirable. I’m not even going to lie if I said, that going into the store I wanted to buy everything there.

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The first piece I took a picture of was a mid length floral dress that had a festive fall feel to it. I saw the dress and immediately thought of pairing it with knee length boots and a wool coat.

The second picture in the box next to the floral dress, is a wool and polyester open cardigan with  faux leather pockets. After I took the picture, a woman who looked like she was in her late 20’s tried on the cardigan. I noticed that she and her friend were both fashionable, one the girls put her Louis Vuitton cross body on the clothing rack.

The third picture is a short star printed shirt that grabbed my attention. I’ve been trying hard to find a whimsical print that’s fun but not too kooky, and this shirt was just perfect. As I took the picture of the shirt, three older woman in their late 40’s walked by and examined the clothes in the store. They were cheery and energetic to try on the clothes.

The last picture is a pair of blue shoes with creeper soles. The souls on the shoes stood out to me because Rihanna had a collaboration with Puma with the exact soles, and those shoes sold out in record fashion. It was amusing to see how the high street fashion was being influenced by the big chain’s such as Puma for their shoe inspiration.

In conclusion, Flushing has changed to include more fashions stores, as well as food too. I noticed in the eight years since I moved from there, there’s been young and old people passing through the mall. However, it does make me a bit sad to see the stores that aren’t affiliated with brand name recognition. The stores that sell clothes that aren’t logo based are having a hard time selling their clothes. When I pass through those places, all I see is a vacant store. It makes me feel sad for the people who work in those stores that just want to earn an living. Hopefully, one day Flushing will emerge as a place where it once used to be. Smaller stores used to do great, until the gentrification that’s been happening for several years now. I hope that this busy city that is Flushing, conjures up business for stores that are small, and not just for big ones. After all, it’s a great feeling when you’re wearing something that’s unique than wearing something that everyone else has.

 

 

Fashion, Technology, and Everything in Between

In reference to last week’s class, I was compelled by the discussion on digital work, technology, and machinery in relation to hand-made items. Then there is the idea of using technology as fashion, mixing the two together rather than seeing them as enemies, as seen in top image of this blog. This is a Disney collaboration with Richard Nicoli to create a fiber optic dress that is inspired by Tinkerbell (get full details here). Before I tackle anything, I immediately related to the idea of authenticity, again, because of a class I took at FIDM many years ago. I remember the library was filled with students on the computer creating digital flat patterns, and as a freshman I was confused. I was confused because I didn’t understand how digital flat pattern making can be as important as free hand drawing. I spent almost 45 hours a week, not allowed to trace, but to draw fashion figures by hand using only a ruler and a pencil. I did this in repetition so that I could draw faster and draw professionally. But, my very first drawing teacher, also a freelance fashion design sketcher, always said that one day all these hand skills wouldn’t matter because of technology.

It seem tragic, if you ask me, that a computer could replace the way a person can draw through talent and hard work. I don’t think technology is necessarily a bad thing in the fashion industry, either, but why does one have to isolate or eliminate the other? Can’t we have both? As we talked about in our class, some hand skills are impossible to replicate in digital form: that is why it is a skill. By definition, a skill is: competent excellence in performance; expertness; dexterity” (click here). And in another thought, computers did not fall from the sky, right? They are engineered by human beings so human beings can never be taken out of the equation of creation. And with hand craft,there is tradition in using tools in this process of labor. With machines, the game does change, but does not eliminate the human hand completely.

In”Abstracting Craft: The Practiced Digital Hand” by Malcolm McCullough, he states:

People ‘craft’ everything from business memos to good stout beer. In digital production, craft refers to the condition where people apply standard technological means to unanticipated or indescribable ends. Works of computer animation, geometric modeling, and spatial databases get “crafted” when experts use limited software capacities resourcefully, imaginatively, and in compensation for inadequacies of prepackaged, hard-coded operations (311).

The hand may not be actually touching the item to be crafted, but by using digital production, they are creating the technology that will perform the crafting process. So, the act of crafting is never lost. And as McCullough puts so wisely: “To craft is to care” (311) which emulates the idea that the act of creating something from imagination to the tangible has to be done carefully, and almost emotionally in a way. The amount of time that comes from crafting says a lot about how much a person cares about what they are crafting.

Claire Danes in Zac Posen at the 2016 Met Gala (click here)

Claire Danes in the Zac Posen “Cinderella Dress” at the 2016 Met Gala (click here)

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There is always going to be a balance between functionality and aesthetic, but I think that also is a part of the imaginative process that comes with digital crafting. But, where we must be careful in how we keep digital technology alive without losing what is important. Karl Marx’s “Capital” states:

The special skill of each individual insignificant factory operative vanishes as an infinitesimal quantity before the science, the gigantic physical forces, and the mass of labour that are embodied in the factory mechanism and, together with that mechanism, constitute the power of the ‘master’. This ‘master’, therefore, in whose brain the machinery and his monopoly of it are inseparably united, whatever he falls out with his ‘hands’… (76).

The machinery, and the industrial revolution in general, helped to advance fashion while also replacing hand-made work and the laborers need to carry those tasks out. Machinery creates a border in fashion between human and product, human and craft, etc. Mass production and machinery leaves the worker useless and in less interest to producing craft; there is too much freedom and time. There is a unique relationship, as talked about with Marx before, between the craftsman and the crafted product. So, if skills are not going anywhere, and technology is only going to advance, let our hands only help to combine the two binaries to keep making fashion alive and new. My question at the end of the day, and maybe I’m being greedy, is why can’t we have both?

My original post can be found here: http://www.bonesboudoir.com/fabric-of-cultures-virtual-scrapbook-vi/

An enduring legacy

I walked through my sister’s room.  Reminders everywhere, but none affected me as intensely as her sneakers. She decided she wouldn’t wear them that day. My mother recounted how nicely dressed she was when she went out for a walk, remarking that she was all in black.

Once upon a time my older sister was a wonder kid.  While in her teens she made clothes. With meticulous attention to detail, she cut out patterns, modified them for size, added an under layer even when not called for, and sewed the parts together impeccably. I have a vague recollection of attending a fashion show that included clothes that she made.

Years went by, her life spinning with a negative force she couldn’t control. She decides to end it.  Her belongings remain.  I took a few of her clothes home. Not the sneakers though, I couldn’t see keeping them; they didn’t fit was the excuse I told myself.

In addition to store bought, I kept clothes that my sister made. These were buried deep in the back of her closet, painful reminders of a self she no longer recognized.  I remember when she made the cornflower blue full length dress to wear to our cousin’s wedding. The work that went into that dress continues to astonish me: a full lining, folds fastidiously gathered and sewed in the pintuck bodice, fabric covered buttons that she hand made, and a thick sash attached to tie in the back. This dress holds an emotional power that is indescribable.  When I look at it, feel it, and study its construction I am brought back to a childhood shared with a big sister who inspired a sense of wonder.

blue-dress

Like the blue dress, the long grey coat evokes memories of our past. It is another garment that my sister constructed masterfully in the early/mid 1970s, and the vintage design of its era is notable. I still wear this stylish coat and when I do, I recognize an additional power that it holds for me. I am aware of its materiality, structure, and design elements, and how these affect my demeanor.  I carry myself differently when I wear this mod coat, while inwardly I reflect on bittersweet memories of my sister. Peter Stallybrass expressed in his essay the personal and emotional qualities that clothes can imbue. In his, Umberto Eco observed the physical and outward behavior elicited by the wearing of certain clothes.  I look at the grey coat that now hangs outside the closet and I am struck by its power, both emotional and physical.

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Remaking My T-Shirt

In my art practice, I commonly work with a number of recycled items: worn clothes, scraps of fabric, paper, etc. I find that the use of these types of “throwaway” items also allows me a lot of creative freedom. When I don’t have to worry about wasting the “good stuff” I find that I’m a lot more willing to take creative chances, really allowing myself to go in and experiment, whether through new techniques or in the creation of silhouettes that I’ve not worked with before.

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My goal in working with this t-shirt was one that I often have when upcycling items: to keep the used materials front and center while making the fact that they are being upcyled completely recede. I want people to see this as a new, fully realized article, with little or no thought to what it used to be. Generally, I feel my most successful projects are the ones where people don’t know that it has been upcycled at all.

In the case of this shirt I wanted to keep it as a top, but to combine it with a contrast material to move away from the feeling of it being just a plain cotton t-shirt. Ultimately, I chose a chunky, cream-colored yarn.

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To start, I rolled and stitched the sleeves into very short cap sleeves, and then I cropped several inches from the length.t-shirt-3a
The design I decided on was a simple diamond pattern that was to be embroidered into the shirt with the yarn, so I used a ruler and fabric pen to mark out a grid across the shirt surface of where I would be doing the sewing. After that, it was ready to be embroidered.

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The final touch was adding a wrap-around stitch to the cap sleeves and around the collar.

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I left the cut bottom of the shirt as is, since I really enjoyed the ruching effect it was given by the tension of the embroidered stitches.

t-shirt-after

Blog Post #1

September 26th, 2017

Blog Post #1: Recap of the first Day, Meet our Team!

Sarah L, Aviva G, Sarah S, Sehara G

For our team project, we created a skirt of memories. All the members of our team contributed a T-shirt that served as a sentimental representation of our transition to college students: mainly, how we will move into this new chapter of our lives while still holding onto the previous ones. Sarah Ls’ T-shirt was one which she made herself in camp when she was ten years old. Being in college now, she looks back fondly at her youth in summer camp. She is determined to take the happiness and enthusiasm she displayed as a young girl in summer camp and bring that to the professional setting she is now in. Aviva donated a shirt that was given to her by her older sister who has since moved away. Once her sister moved away, Aviva saw her less frequently, and both she and her sister had to put in effort to make those reunions happen. Even though Aviva being busy with college life adds to this difficulty, she is determined to not leave her relationship with her sister behind. The T-shirt Sarah S. contributed is once which while volunteering at  traveling camp. While homework now takes up a significant amount of Sarah’s time, she will not let this stop her from volunteering regularly as she did before the transition to college life. Sehara’s T-shirt was given to her by a friend from before college. While a big part of college life is the social aspect and making new friends, Sehara is committed to staying in touch with friends from her childhood and younger years, and nurture those relationships while fostering new ones. Together, we used T-Shirts to create a project that represents what we are determined not to leave behind while making the exciting transitions to college life. In addition, we chose a skirt specifically, because of a religious dress code we all share that entails us wearing skirts. We are proud of our culture and happy to express that.

Reasoning and Notes on The White T-Shirt

Unfortunately, I was not able to be part of the workshop with artist Shelby Head last week. I was disappointed because I am always looking for ways to recycle clothes or accessories I no longer us and try hard to avoid the guilt of simply throwing them away. Nevertheless, for this post, I had the chance to think in depth about the role of the t-shirt, a garment which is usually underestimated for its simplicity and – in some cases – even considered banal and boring. While looking at the Fabric of Cultures website, an item in particular surprisingly caught my attention: a white, plain but classy t-shirt. This fact made me think about the role of t-shirts in my personal experience but also in modern society.

The T-shirt in general is considered a comfortable and practical piece of clothing for everyday life, usually perceived as too basic to be worn in a professional environment or an elegant occasion. But yet it is used in varied circumstances, showing adaptability among its hidden properties. It is often underestimated because it is cheap and easy to wear: it is ready-to-go, it does not need much embellishment and it fits different body types. It is a symbol of fashion equality, as everybody can afford and wear a t-shirt (i.e. let’s think of the t-shirt business in impoverished nations).

When I think about the t-shirt, I associated it with the idea of western culture and modernity: born at the beginning of the XX Century, this piece of clothing became a universal symbol of democratization that can be declined in many different ways, without losing its simplicity or becoming irreverent. It is linked to youth and spontaneity but it is also worn by people of different ages, cultures and social statuses.

If we follow Eco’s thinking, in his article Lumbar thought, that clothes are make us assuming a specific demeanor (Eco 316), we can conclude that t-shirts affect human beings the least: as they are comfortable and easy to wear, they do not lead us to think about what we are wearing and how we are perceived by society in that moment. However, if we are, we are associated with the idea of conformity and neutrality. If we think about someone who does not want to be noticed, we can picture them wearing a plain t-shirt.

Nonetheless I pushed myself to redefine my idea of t-shirts and in particular the white one. This is probably the article of clothing in my wardrobe that I consider least and yet it is the most important and has never been missing. Since I was a teenager and I started to make fashion choices for myself, I can remember having a white t-shirt. Whenever I am shopping for something to wear, I tend to go straight to the pile of the white t-shirts. It almost seems my subconscious pushes me to the piece that I know I will always wear whenever I feel challenged in my outfit decisions. A white basic shirt has all the potential I need: it is almost like an empty space I can fill with my imagination (i.e. jewelry, jacket, pants, shoes); I can play with it, reshape and redesign the surroundings of my own person, and once I am done, I can always go back and start from the beginning.

I like the idea of thinking that, instead of having only one piece in my wardrobe to rethink, I could use my white t-shirt to create something new every time. A white t-shirt that I can erase and modify and finally bring back to its original self.

 

Shirt to Shorts

When we were told we had to take one article of clothing and turn it into something else, I was really stumped as to what we would do. Once we got started, my mind started working. You could honestly see the gears turning. I suggested we turn the shirt into a pair of shorts. The rest of the group agreed and the rest is history. We folded up the bottom of the shirt to make the pants shorter. We used hot glue to keep it in place. Krzysztof had the brilliant idea to put the sleeves in and convert them into pockets. That really made the shirt look like a true pair of shorts. We decided as a group to add some rips in the shorts to give it a Yeezy vibe. Along with some minor alterations to the shorts to make them fit better, the shorts were practically finished.

A T-Shirt is a T-Shirt is a T-Shirt?

How to transform a T-shirt into something else? I must consider other uses, change its construction, analyze the materiality and the process of transformation, and write about it. This is a tall order for someone who appreciates the simplicity of the T-shirt for its very sake.

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My narrow but widely held view of what a T-shirt is must be busted. On top of observing its finite qualities, I think it is the ultimate object of conformity, regardless of any novel adornment or who is wearing it. A T-shirt that is fringed or pulled off the shoulder a la Flashdance is no longer a T-shirt, is it?

But that’s the idea. Take that T-shirt acquired long ago as a souvenir in Brazil and make it something else. Hmm… I’ve got some leftover yarn from knitting projects past, and I do fancy the hand embroidered Women’s Robe from China on the T-Shape page of this website. To be continued, here.

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