Monthly Archives: November 2016

T-Shirt: a short-sleeved casual top, generally made of cotton, having the shape of a T when spread out flat.

Personally, I have t-shirts ranging from free to $100 and they all are created relevantly the same way no matter what price point.

The T-shape/t-shirt has been around since the ancient world (Mesopotamia) and later moved to the Mediterranean area. Still nowadays the T-shirt is a staple in almost everyone’s wardrobe. I was excited to read and learn about how a t-shirt was made because I thought it may help me understand globalization easier. It is so fascinating to know that the USA has dominated the cotton industry for so long. There are many institutions that are set up in place to help continue the control such as; capital, market, literacy, a “virtuous circle,” and subsidies. (p. 54).

I now understand that producers and consumers in the US are always chasing the lowest price of labor to make these shirts. The textile industry is always in a race to find the cheapest way to produce. America, China, Britain and Japan have all tried and have compromised working conditions to get there. These factories have exploited women and children, poor living conditions, hunger, low wages and long days with few breaks. I will definitely look at my cotton t-shirt differently and with more care considering the effort that went into making it. After, hearing the sister’s talk about their work lives and home lives, I realized I take my shirts for granted. They sacrifice so much and I didn’t even realize it. This is why I want to make sure I always repurpose and recycle my t-shirts.

It was inspiring to learn exactly how they are made from the cotton to the production.

For my t-shirt project, I decided to use an old Ralph Lauren that I dyed at our laundry in North Carolina. It started to become somewhat weathered from wearing it bed so much that I was deciding to throw it away. I couldn’t bring myself to because it was a dye that I worked hard on. I decided to make it into a little bag that I could quickly grab on my way out to the store

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“Worn Worlds” My Grandparents Clothing

After, reading Stallybrass’s essay “Worn Worlds” it made me remember some of the things I had gone through when both of my grandfathers passed away.

When my maternal grandfather passed away in 2007, I was devastated. I can remember sitting in his room staring at his closet. Touching all of his clothes and realizing he wouldn’t ever wear these again. It wasn’t the clothes hanging in the closet that made me sad. It was when I opened all of his dresser draws looking at his socks all neatly flipped together. Digging through these draws rapidly trying to find some lasting piece of him I could hold on to. It has been almost 10 years since he passed and I repurposed a lot of his things so that I always have a part of him near me. Even though nothing will bring back the person that filled out these clothes having pieces of his clothing helps me feel safe and with him.

My paternal grandfather passed away in January. Before he died he asked my family to come into his closet. He wanted to get rid of his clothes. At first, I did not want to be a part of because he was still alive and it felt in bad taste to talk about you not being around anymore. But why his clothing? Why did he want to get rid of it before he died? To make sure it ended up in the right hands?

He asked each of my sisters and me, to pick out a hat. I really didn’t want a hat because in my head he wasn’t actually going to die. I did anyway to make him happy. He desperately wanted to give my dad his suit and cuff links. He claimed the only nice pieces of clothing he owned (it is true). But isn’t it weird, you are dying and wanting your clothes to be safe?  He passed away about 3 weeks later and my grandmother dumped all of his clothing almost immediately. Which I felt heartbroken about and I just don’t know why?

My maternal grandmother has moved in with my family. She is battling with Alzheimer’s which is extremely hard to watch. She loved clothing and dressing up and going out to parties. She sold her house last year and gave me a gift she wanted me to have. It was a custom dress she had had made for a cruise to see Frank Sinatra. She is from a small poor town and to her this $300 custom made dress was everything. She wanted me to have it because she knew I would keep it safe when she couldn’t remember anymore. Every now and then she will have a spark and ask me where her dress is. I assure her the dress is safe with me and I will always keep it safe.

A piece of clothing that I have that holds some type of power is a dress my grandmother gave me. The dress holds so much sentimental value to her. It is a custom made sequined dress that she wore to a Frank Sinatra concert with my grandfather for their wedding anniversary. I don’t practically love the dress and I probably will never wear it but she holds that dress so dear that it makes it valuable to me.

She recently had to sell her house and move in with my family because of her Alzheimer’s diagnosis.  When she came upon the dress, she made sure to give it to me because of my interest in fashion. My mom explained to me that this dress was her favorite thing and wanted to know it would always be safe. This is why I have it now. My mom told me it was a really big deal for to purchase this dress.

It is crazy to me that with her memory slipping, she can still hold onto the memory of that dress. Every time, she remembers it she will ask if it is safe. I make sure I let her know I still have it and it is in perfect condition. She can then go into a story of exactly what happe
ned when she wore the dress and how excited and happy she was. Because this dress brings my grandma so much happiness and great memories it holds a powerful meaning for me.

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Colorful Little India

Little India situated in the neighborhood Rose Hill, from 25th to 30th street, has become known as Curry Hill of Manhattan. Neighborhood developed rapidly between 2000 and 2010 as Manhattan’s Indian population nearly doubled. Among many restaurants and spice shops, there are two shops with authentic Indian clothing. Both shops abound with colorful clothes and golden jewelry. I chose to examine Lexington Saree Palace on 29th street. From the outside shop looked very modest but I was encouraged to go inside because I saw many women in Indian ethnical clothing trying jewelry and saris. Once I entered, full range of colors, sweet smell of lightened incense sticks, and oriental music showed the true colors of India.

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Owner of the shop is 43 years old Indian women, Kareena, who is managing that shop for the last 23 years. When she opened, initially it was tailoring shop, where women could choose the fabrics and she would sew the top or long skirt. In the last few years, Kareena orders tops for saris from India, because she finds it cheaper and more profitable then sewing it herself. Shop is full of textile; walls are cover in shelves which are full of colorful material. Kareena told me that it is mostly used for saris. Textile that Indian women will choose varies.

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Usually wealthier women will choose silk which is the priciest and they will combine it with golden pieces of jewelry that Kareena will sew into their and teach them how to wear it. The most common style, among others, is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff. Other textile that is very popular for sari is velvet and chiffon. Lately, with the increase of the young indian population and their attempt to assimilate with American fashion, Kareena’s store doesn’t sell as much as it was in early 2000s. Nowadays, women mostly buy cotton fabric which is considered as a boring textile used for day outfits.

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Sometimes, if she is lucky, she prepares women for Indian wedding, which could count up to 100 women. Kareena showed the whole assortment of tops that are worn under sari. They are all imported from India, handmade out of cotton, with golden ducats or crystals, made to reach woman’s waist. Price of each top is $50, but Kareena told me she bought it for much lower price from India.

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Mostly she imports fabrics and tunics from India. She said that it is very cheap comparing to United States. Tunics are the best sold items, because they can be combined with other clothing items easily, but also Indian women wear the whole year long.

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Kareena almost never orders from the U.S. market, not just because it is more expensive but also it is not fashionable. Indian women give a lot of attention to their look and especially younger women want to be dressed up to date. Moreover, New York, being such an international  mecca, puts a lot of competition on Kareena’s way. Her first neighbors, The Indian Village store is her biggest threat because owners are young American-Indians who step out of the ethnic frame by introducing more casual clothing line for women. However, Kareena thinks she is still preferred better by customers because of her longevity in the neighborhood. Furthermore, often her store makes outfits for Bollywood movies that are filmed in New York. Probably the best income she gets is from the film industry, because they buy a lot and want the best and most popular clothing and jewelry details.

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In the last few years, there is big number of American customers who travel to India or go to Indian celebrations for which they need a “costume” to assimilate. Kareena said that Americans laugh when she puts half a pound of jewelry on them. “Indian women love to look like peacocks. They love colors and jewelry.” Bijouterie is very cheap, under $5 for the pack of bracelets or rings. However, Indian women rather wear gold that they get as a dowry on the wedding day. Imitation jewelry is mostly for unmarried girls, the more they put on themselves will make them more attractive in the eyes of men.

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The last but not least detail are shoes. The most popular are shoes called ‘jutis’. The commonly shoe-style worn in India is in leather with beaded work, mirror work, thread work and hand embroidery work

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From my conversation with Kareena I concluded that women in India crave for silk and chiffon, while they do not cherish cotton due it its accessibility and very afordible price. When comparing it to the western world in which women want to turn to organic way of living and would like their clothing to be organic but cheap, where clothing producers rise the price of clothes and it started to be hard to find something that is made out of cotton and cheap. Kareena told me that each tunic cost less than $5 in India, and here she feels resonable to sell it for $50 because the lack of cotton made women appreciate quality.

 

 

 

Fivestory Story

Upon strolling down the Madison Avenue on the Upper East Side, I came across Fivestory. Located on 18 East 69th Street, this boutique offers multi-brand women’s wear from international ready-to-wear designers. Opened five years ago by Claire Distenfeld, this store is hidden between Madison Avenue and Fifth Avenue with an interesting entrance as if walking into a townhouse.fivestory-vika-gazinskaya.jpg (650×666)

In a neighborhood known for its residents of the upper class and luxury stores, Fivestory is not far from the intention to serve this particular population. The store welcomed me with a doorman opening the doors before me and two sales assistants greeting me. There were no other visitors or buyers in the store, and my first impressions were that the space is beautiful. This is not surprising for the luxury stores that tend to exceptionally decorate their interior, but this was just a boutique and it looked like a small castle filled with apparel. There are two floors in the boutique and the space, although very nice is very tiny, narrow and small.fivestory.png (586×640)

However, on the hangers and shelves not much clothing and accessories can be found. As I entered the shop, I went down the stairs and was first surrounded by small purses. Then I proceeded through a narrow hall filled with glass shelves, on which sunglasses were placed, into the clothing room, where every piece of garment was on its hanger. The clothing items were spaced close to each other, which in other stores compared to the price of the item would be different, as every item was way over its ‘’real price’’. For example, white T-shirt costs $75. Other clothing items were priced over $1000. I proceeded into the room with shoes, which is at the back of the store, where I found a large mirror and a sink that were a very rich addition to the look of the store. Shoes were beautiful, and flats cost approximately $500.

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I went up the stairs onto the second floor. There were jewelry and more bags. There was also a nice painting on the wall as well as nice sofa in the room. I went straight in another room, where the dressing gowns and short mink fur coats were displayed. The clothing items had a very nice print and I liked the short mink coat in a pale rose color.

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While I was observing the boutique, the sales assistant was following every step I made, so it was really hard to take pictures. This store is intended for any class or race, but according to the prices and luxury, one can certainly assume that most of the customers are of the white upper class. On December 5, 2012, Harper’s Bazaar conducted an interview with Claire Distenfeld. When asked if she believes that fashion should be ageless, Claire responded, ‘’Yes. Whenever somebody asks me who’s your demographic, who’s your customer, how old are they? I don’t understand what that even means. As I said, I’ve had an aesthetic since I was so young and I think I’m going to have that same mindset until I grow old. It’s really a mindset. There’s almost a symmetry. Like why do people think that other people are beautiful? Because there’s symmetry to their face — there’s a symmetry to an outfit when it works — and when it’s balanced, you feel it. You feel it like the balance of the Earth.’’

While trying to find the store for this project, I called multiple boutiques and had sales assistants hang up phone on me. After visiting Fivestory, I went to Chloé where the saleswomen were, of course, following me around the store, but I could sense they had a prejudice about me, based on whether I will buy a certain item or not. I am really glad that I found Fivestory because among luxury brand stores, it was pleasant to discover a store that offers internationally branded clothing, from people all over the world who try to sell Claire their innovative designs and prints.

Engagement Project-Burlington Coat Factory

Burlington Coat Factory originally sold coats; now they sell products varying from socks to dresses to baby furniture. Attracting a demographic with the same variety found on its shelves. This Burlington is located in Glen Oaks. In this small town, this is one of the only real clothing stores in the shopping plaza. The store is always filled with comfortable shoppers who have extensive experience searching through the racks of this two-leveled department store. It’s filled with parents and grandparents who rely on this store for the best deal for ordinary brands.

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This isn’t the pinnacle of fashion but rather the pinnacle of practicality; Burlington sells all the items that make up a personalized home. Taking the place of the more expensive shopping outlets, this department store has the tone of the wanderer. The shopper who browses the racks casually, usually in search for nothing in particular. In fact the shoppers are so swept up in this empty minded wandering that many have bumped into each other, too absorbed in the good deals that populate these opportunity filled shelves. As I walked around, it was evident which departments were more frequently visited, as those were the peaceful isles; every item tucked away into its own random spot on the shelf, rarely ever to be touched. Each item, a deal; each shopper, on a budget, but willing to buy if they believe they’re getting a deal. The manager told one of the customers, “It might be expensive, it might be twenty dollars,” to which the customer replied “okay, I can do that.” This is a store where twenty dollars is able to stretch not necessarily in quality, but in quantity. Through these observations, I ended up learning the importance of Burlington’s affordability and how this appeals to a large portion of the middle class.

Engagement Project- West Hempstead

West Hempstead is a small, quiet town located in Long Island. This town has a mix of many cultures that all live together with little to no problems. Everyone respects each other’s cultures, beliefs, and religion. The two main religions in this town is Christianity and Judaism.

The Christian families wear whatever clothing is trending now. For males this consist of jeans, sweatpants, Adidas slides, hoodies, and T-Shirts. These clothes are bought from Roosevelt Field Mall, either from American Eagle, Hollister, or Adidas. The logos for at least one of these stores can be found on everyone walking around town, whether it’s on their hat, shirt, pants, or shoes. It is walking advertisement whenever a male from my town goes out in public. It is very casual wear, nothing to attract attention directly to you like bright colors. Very neutral colors like white, black, blue, grey, and brown occasionally. For women there are jeans, leggings, hoodies, T-shirts, and shorts. Women buy their clothing for stores like Victoria’s Secret, Cotton On, Pink, H&M, Forever 21, and American Eagle mostly.

A lot of the shopping is done at Roosevelt Field Mall and this mall contains many different stores to appease everyone’s taste in fashion. There is a Hot Topic for the kids who are feeling rebellious, dark, and mysterious. Then you have American Eagle for casual clothing that you can wear to school or to just hang with friends. Every store is different and the people who go inside match the clothing inside. With Hot Topic you see many people in dark, spiked clothing, and dyed hair. While at American Eagle, you see blue jeans, grey, green, black, red shirts, and in the summertime jean shorts for girls and cargo shorts for guys.

The Jewish section of my town dresses very conservatively. On the weekends you see the men dressed in black suits with white button down shirts with hats on. The women are in dresses that are past their knees, halfway between the knees and ankles. They dress well because they are going to the Synagogue but on weekdays they also dress like this for work and school. The males were Yamakas on their heads for religious purposes.

My town you can see a distinct difference between who is apart of what culture. Depending on what religion you are apart of has a huge impact on the type of clothing you wear. A couple of examples of non religious people or more liberal religions may be observed in the pictures below.

 

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