Monthly Archives: October 2016

Engagement Project – Whitney Museum of American Art

The Whitney Museum of American Art, colloquially known as “The Whitney”, is an art museum, as the name suggests. Once located in East Village, the museum has since been moved to ritzy Lower Manhattan, in the Meatpacking District. Surrounded by rustic store fronts and a surprising number of restaurants, the Whitney seems to be exclusively patronized by socialites, hipsters, the well-dressed, and the occasional tourist.
I had visited recently with some friends who needed to examine an exhibit for a school assignment. We had not expected the museum to be quite so fancy, so of course we stuck out like sore thumbs. The only piece of clothing we had remotely like what the other patrons were wearing was my newsboy cap. However, because of the stark contrast between our outfits and theirs, I was easily able to notice the fashions present.

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(A good example of the prevalent style of clothing)

The most obvious thing about the others patrons’ outfits was the surprising lack of color. Many of the other museum goers’ outfits consisted of black, white, or grey. The majority of the men and women present also wore similar clothing. Corduroy jackets and woolen overcoats seemed to be the order of the day, because you couldn’t wave your arms without hitting someone bundled up tight in those coats. The jackets reminded me of something I’d see in a commercial for a high-end clothing store, certainly nothing the average citizen would have on hand for an average cold day. Many of the patrons were also neck deep in accessories like scarves and gloves, despite the fact that they were indoors. A surprising amount of people were wearing big sunglasses, oftentimes emblazoned with a brand one might associate with exorbitant prices, like Ray Ban’s. It was apparent that my friends and I were lacking in fanciness. We had showed up in brightly colored fleece jackets and blue jeans, looking like a bag of skittles in an otherwise monochromatic setting.
Luckily, we weren’t the only fish out of water. New York, being the popular travel destination that it is, always has a gaggle of tourists somewhere. The ones at the Whitney, much like my friends and I, didn’t quite fit in to the fashion scene of the museum. They appeared to be dressed more for function, rather than fashion. They wore thick coats with fur lined hoods, or fleece jackets designed to keep warmth in. The brands they were wearing were instantly recognizable, popular names like The North Face and L.L Bean. Oftentimes, they also had backpacks, likely because the Whitney would not be their only stop during the day.
Of course, it’s not to say that one group of patrons looked any better or worse than another group of patrons. The most interesting contrast to me was that the most common demographic present at the Whitney was wealthy, younger people with a similar fashion sense. I can’t deny that they really did dress nicely though. Were it within my power, I would probably wear nothing but soft wool coats too. I did not take any pictures of the patrons because taking pictures of anything in a museum is largely frowned upon. Compared to my neighborhood, however, Lower Manhattan certainly dresses to impress.

Engagement Project

In Huntington, Long Island, there is a mall called the Walt Whitman Mall. This mall is about a 30 minute drive from QC. It is also about 30 minutes away from my house in Selden. zara-walt-whitman-1At this mall, there is one store in particular that I love. That store is Zara. Even when I still lived in Canada I loved Zara. Zara sells a variety of things for men, women, and children. From clothes to shoes, even bow ties, Zara’s got it. They have a variety of pieces, from streetwear to suits. You could easily make several outfits just from shopping at Zara. While I like a lot of things that Zara sells, one area that I believe they excel in are jackets, specifically bomber jackets(see image below). The reason I believe this is because Zara has a wide selection of bomber jackets, coming in all colours and fabrics. Bomber Jackets were once used for military pilots, but as of late they have become a staple in urban fashion.

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Bomber Jacket

Engagement Project – E. 161st Street, Yankee Stadium Neighborhood

The E. 161st street, Yankee Stadium Neighborhood is home to a wide variety of fashions. From lawyers working at the Bronx Supreme Court to students walking to and from school, 161st has been home to many local, national, and international fashions. New York, more specifically, the Bronx, is famous for many things, one of which is Yankee Stadium and the Bronx Bombers. However, one of the factors that is often overlooked is the people live and work in that neighborhood.

As a local attraction, Yankee Stadium brings a lot of business to the Bronx. Whether it be baseball games played against the Yankees or soccer games played against NYCFC, E. 161st street provides everything its visitors need. Filled with many restaurants, delis, and coffee shops, E. 161st street is a nightmare for anyone who is on a diet.

On a more local level, the fashions of the people who live and work at 161st street are wide in variety. From students to lawyers, and from athletes to pizza shop workers, each one of those people has his or her own sense of fashions. However, those who stand out are students. With various schools within that neighborhood, students can be seen wearing their uniforms to and from school, sometimes late into the afternoon if they participate in extracurricular activities. One of the most prominent high schools of the area is Cardinal Hayes High School. Its students wear beige khakis or gray dress pants, blue, yellow, or white long sleeve shirts, blue blazers or burgundy senior sweaters, a variety of ties, and, if they are seniors, Cardinal & Gold bucket hats. In order to match with the New York Yankee brand, local fast food restaurant owners require their workers to wear blue pieces of clothing on the job (shirts, pants, sweaters, etc.) Those who work in the nearby offices can be seen wearing suits, carrying briefcases, and, more often than not, rushing through the streets trying to get to their destination.

Two local mall plazas provide the local people with places to buy clothes, get a quick bite, and even catch a movies. People can often be seen entering these plazas wearing anything from sweatpants and sneakers to dress shoes and dress shirts. Small children run around in the plaza wearing mostly casual but matching outfits that their parents have put together. For example, small boys often wear matching shirts and jackets, while small girls often wear a dress with a matching hat. Teenagers mostly wear flashy sneakers and flashy jackets or shirts, depending on the weather.

Because of its great diversity in people and in businesses, E. 161st Street – Yankee Stadium is home to an immense variety of fashions.

Precinct

Sports Bar

Concourse Plaza

Restaurant

All images taken from Google.

Engagement Project (by Francesco Concordia)

I’ve lived in Ridgewood Queens New York for my entire life. It borders the neighborhoods of Maspeth, Middle Village, and Glendale, as well as the Brooklyn neighborhoods of Bushwick and East Williamsburg. This amount of experience has given me insight on what type of people that live in Ridgewood. The people in Ridgewood are predominantly working class democratic citizens. Ethnicity wise there are all different types of people, with different cultures and languages. You often see the occasional Polish deli’s, Italian restaurant’s, and Chinese food markets. This is just one of the indications that shows us just about how much diversity is in this neighborhood, other than just going outside and roaming the streets and seeing all the different types of cultures and people there are. However, one thing that I can find in common with all these different people is their fashion senses. The longer I paid attention to what they wearied the more clothing items I saw reaper in other people all around the neighborhood.

For example the baseball style hats are back in style in Ridgewood, however, people come to know this specific style of hat to be called “dad hats”. I’ve seen students that go to the local high school wear these hats. Along with grown men and women. As the weather gets colder I’ve seen a recent spike in a specific type of jacket that I’ve seen worn so many times that I even purchased it because of its appealing, and functional design. This jacket is called “flight jacket”. They often had patches on them that made every jacket distinctively different from someone else’s. Joggers  are one of the hottest new trends in men’s pant wear, according to my observations. The legs of the pants, which feature elastic at the feet, are designed to fall just above the ankle. I have a couple pairs of joggers too and love them especially for their comfortability.  The “Long T” has also made a comeback in today’s fashion trends. The long tee was popping during the 2000’s now 16 years later I see them in the stores by my house, in my cousin’s wardrobe, and on my best friends. These long shirts usually have simple designs and commonly one solid color. Kanye West might be responsible for this trends revival as he is seen wearing them several times during concerts and media events. Clothing brands such as Adidas, puma, Urban outfitters, Stussy, Puscans, Jordan, and of course Nike rank supreme in Ridgewood as it seems to me the most worn brands. This may have to do with the good quality these companies provide for such affordable costs which the working class people of Ridgewood appreciate and take advantage of .                      flight-jacketdad-hatsjoggers  Watching and paying more close attention to the fashion of these people around me gave me more knowledge and insight on how these people think. I would’ve never even noticed all these new trends if it weren’t for this experience. It helped me realize how behind I was on my own fashion skills and how I need to update my closet draws with new clothes.

Engagement Project-Fashion in the Urban Mecca of Flushing, New York

I grew up in Flushing before the current landscape that it is now today. When I lived there as a baby to when I was 12 years old, I remember Old Navy was the only name brand shop there. As a result of that, most of my clothes were either from Old Navy or from Korean shops. It wasn’t until I moved to Bayside, where I discovered there were a plentiful amount of food stores rather than clothing stores. To get my clothes, I now have to venture off to Long Island where there are more variety of clothing to chose from.

Whenever I head back to Flushing today, I’ve the options to either go to Queens Crossing or the huge store in Sky view Mall. Both of these malls both offer food and places to shop for clothes and accessories. Sky view Mall is the biggest mall in Flushing, as it features Target, Adidas, Forever 21, and much more. While Queens Crossing is more focused on a laid back approach, featuring dessert and dinner places. The only clothing store that Queens Crossings offers is Mango, which is similar to Zara as they’re both high street Spain retailers.

For this engagement project, I chose Mango as for being a high street clothing empire; a majority of their stores are in Spain. In America, Mango only has five stores in America. The stand alone stores that they have is one in Flushing, and one in Soho. Upon researching the brand Mango, I was shocked to hear that. It’s almost an anomaly for high street brands to have only two stores in America. I even remember going to Mango, the day it first opened in 2008 in Flushing. That’s why it was the perfect selection for the engagement project for the Italian 45 class. It’s a clothing brand that’s not too ubiquitous, and it’s something that I can have fun exploring as well.

As soon as I enter Queens Crossing, I see a bundle of people at Paris Baguette (Korean Bakery) eating desserts or drinking coffee. There are people of all ages, races, and genders either chatting up with their friends or ordering food. Then, as I make my way through the cafe’s, I head straight to the first floor where Mango is located. I immediately notice that there are a lot of people that work there are college aged students and in their early 20’s. The vibe of the store is more chill than the busy food cafes outside the store. The people entering the store are mostly young high school and college students. There are even some middle aged woman trying on some garments in the changing room. 

The clothing in the store is contemporary and modern. All of the clothes are sleek and stylish, as they’re similar in presenting an European sensibility to their clothes. Clothing that’s not garish in their colors, but has some trendy pieces mixed with classic pieces. I immediately took some pictures inside the store of the items of clothing and accessories I found desirable. I’m not even going to lie if I said, that going into the store I wanted to buy everything there.

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The first piece I took a picture of was a mid length floral dress that had a festive fall feel to it. I saw the dress and immediately thought of pairing it with knee length boots and a wool coat.

The second picture in the box next to the floral dress, is a wool and polyester open cardigan with  faux leather pockets. After I took the picture, a woman who looked like she was in her late 20’s tried on the cardigan. I noticed that she and her friend were both fashionable, one the girls put her Louis Vuitton cross body on the clothing rack.

The third picture is a short star printed shirt that grabbed my attention. I’ve been trying hard to find a whimsical print that’s fun but not too kooky, and this shirt was just perfect. As I took the picture of the shirt, three older woman in their late 40’s walked by and examined the clothes in the store. They were cheery and energetic to try on the clothes.

The last picture is a pair of blue shoes with creeper soles. The souls on the shoes stood out to me because Rihanna had a collaboration with Puma with the exact soles, and those shoes sold out in record fashion. It was amusing to see how the high street fashion was being influenced by the big chain’s such as Puma for their shoe inspiration.

In conclusion, Flushing has changed to include more fashions stores, as well as food too. I noticed in the eight years since I moved from there, there’s been young and old people passing through the mall. However, it does make me a bit sad to see the stores that aren’t affiliated with brand name recognition. The stores that sell clothes that aren’t logo based are having a hard time selling their clothes. When I pass through those places, all I see is a vacant store. It makes me feel sad for the people who work in those stores that just want to earn an living. Hopefully, one day Flushing will emerge as a place where it once used to be. Smaller stores used to do great, until the gentrification that’s been happening for several years now. I hope that this busy city that is Flushing, conjures up business for stores that are small, and not just for big ones. After all, it’s a great feeling when you’re wearing something that’s unique than wearing something that everyone else has.

 

 

Fashion, Technology, and Everything in Between

In reference to last week’s class, I was compelled by the discussion on digital work, technology, and machinery in relation to hand-made items. Then there is the idea of using technology as fashion, mixing the two together rather than seeing them as enemies, as seen in top image of this blog. This is a Disney collaboration with Richard Nicoli to create a fiber optic dress that is inspired by Tinkerbell (get full details here). Before I tackle anything, I immediately related to the idea of authenticity, again, because of a class I took at FIDM many years ago. I remember the library was filled with students on the computer creating digital flat patterns, and as a freshman I was confused. I was confused because I didn’t understand how digital flat pattern making can be as important as free hand drawing. I spent almost 45 hours a week, not allowed to trace, but to draw fashion figures by hand using only a ruler and a pencil. I did this in repetition so that I could draw faster and draw professionally. But, my very first drawing teacher, also a freelance fashion design sketcher, always said that one day all these hand skills wouldn’t matter because of technology.

It seem tragic, if you ask me, that a computer could replace the way a person can draw through talent and hard work. I don’t think technology is necessarily a bad thing in the fashion industry, either, but why does one have to isolate or eliminate the other? Can’t we have both? As we talked about in our class, some hand skills are impossible to replicate in digital form: that is why it is a skill. By definition, a skill is: competent excellence in performance; expertness; dexterity” (click here). And in another thought, computers did not fall from the sky, right? They are engineered by human beings so human beings can never be taken out of the equation of creation. And with hand craft,there is tradition in using tools in this process of labor. With machines, the game does change, but does not eliminate the human hand completely.

In”Abstracting Craft: The Practiced Digital Hand” by Malcolm McCullough, he states:

People ‘craft’ everything from business memos to good stout beer. In digital production, craft refers to the condition where people apply standard technological means to unanticipated or indescribable ends. Works of computer animation, geometric modeling, and spatial databases get “crafted” when experts use limited software capacities resourcefully, imaginatively, and in compensation for inadequacies of prepackaged, hard-coded operations (311).

The hand may not be actually touching the item to be crafted, but by using digital production, they are creating the technology that will perform the crafting process. So, the act of crafting is never lost. And as McCullough puts so wisely: “To craft is to care” (311) which emulates the idea that the act of creating something from imagination to the tangible has to be done carefully, and almost emotionally in a way. The amount of time that comes from crafting says a lot about how much a person cares about what they are crafting.

Claire Danes in Zac Posen at the 2016 Met Gala (click here)

Claire Danes in the Zac Posen “Cinderella Dress” at the 2016 Met Gala (click here)

glow-dress

There is always going to be a balance between functionality and aesthetic, but I think that also is a part of the imaginative process that comes with digital crafting. But, where we must be careful in how we keep digital technology alive without losing what is important. Karl Marx’s “Capital” states:

The special skill of each individual insignificant factory operative vanishes as an infinitesimal quantity before the science, the gigantic physical forces, and the mass of labour that are embodied in the factory mechanism and, together with that mechanism, constitute the power of the ‘master’. This ‘master’, therefore, in whose brain the machinery and his monopoly of it are inseparably united, whatever he falls out with his ‘hands’… (76).

The machinery, and the industrial revolution in general, helped to advance fashion while also replacing hand-made work and the laborers need to carry those tasks out. Machinery creates a border in fashion between human and product, human and craft, etc. Mass production and machinery leaves the worker useless and in less interest to producing craft; there is too much freedom and time. There is a unique relationship, as talked about with Marx before, between the craftsman and the crafted product. So, if skills are not going anywhere, and technology is only going to advance, let our hands only help to combine the two binaries to keep making fashion alive and new. My question at the end of the day, and maybe I’m being greedy, is why can’t we have both?

My original post can be found here: http://www.bonesboudoir.com/fabric-of-cultures-virtual-scrapbook-vi/

An enduring legacy

I walked through my sister’s room.  Reminders everywhere, but none affected me as intensely as her sneakers. She decided she wouldn’t wear them that day. My mother recounted how nicely dressed she was when she went out for a walk, remarking that she was all in black.

Once upon a time my older sister was a wonder kid.  While in her teens she made clothes. With meticulous attention to detail, she cut out patterns, modified them for size, added an under layer even when not called for, and sewed the parts together impeccably. I have a vague recollection of attending a fashion show that included clothes that she made.

Years went by, her life spinning with a negative force she couldn’t control. She decides to end it.  Her belongings remain.  I took a few of her clothes home. Not the sneakers though, I couldn’t see keeping them; they didn’t fit was the excuse I told myself.

In addition to store bought, I kept clothes that my sister made. These were buried deep in the back of her closet, painful reminders of a self she no longer recognized.  I remember when she made the cornflower blue full length dress to wear to our cousin’s wedding. The work that went into that dress continues to astonish me: a full lining, folds fastidiously gathered and sewed in the pintuck bodice, fabric covered buttons that she hand made, and a thick sash attached to tie in the back. This dress holds an emotional power that is indescribable.  When I look at it, feel it, and study its construction I am brought back to a childhood shared with a big sister who inspired a sense of wonder.

blue-dress

Like the blue dress, the long grey coat evokes memories of our past. It is another garment that my sister constructed masterfully in the early/mid 1970s, and the vintage design of its era is notable. I still wear this stylish coat and when I do, I recognize an additional power that it holds for me. I am aware of its materiality, structure, and design elements, and how these affect my demeanor.  I carry myself differently when I wear this mod coat, while inwardly I reflect on bittersweet memories of my sister. Peter Stallybrass expressed in his essay the personal and emotional qualities that clothes can imbue. In his, Umberto Eco observed the physical and outward behavior elicited by the wearing of certain clothes.  I look at the grey coat that now hangs outside the closet and I am struck by its power, both emotional and physical.

grey-coat

Remaking My T-Shirt

In my art practice, I commonly work with a number of recycled items: worn clothes, scraps of fabric, paper, etc. I find that the use of these types of “throwaway” items also allows me a lot of creative freedom. When I don’t have to worry about wasting the “good stuff” I find that I’m a lot more willing to take creative chances, really allowing myself to go in and experiment, whether through new techniques or in the creation of silhouettes that I’ve not worked with before.

t-shirt-before

My goal in working with this t-shirt was one that I often have when upcycling items: to keep the used materials front and center while making the fact that they are being upcyled completely recede. I want people to see this as a new, fully realized article, with little or no thought to what it used to be. Generally, I feel my most successful projects are the ones where people don’t know that it has been upcycled at all.

In the case of this shirt I wanted to keep it as a top, but to combine it with a contrast material to move away from the feeling of it being just a plain cotton t-shirt. Ultimately, I chose a chunky, cream-colored yarn.

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To start, I rolled and stitched the sleeves into very short cap sleeves, and then I cropped several inches from the length.t-shirt-3a
The design I decided on was a simple diamond pattern that was to be embroidered into the shirt with the yarn, so I used a ruler and fabric pen to mark out a grid across the shirt surface of where I would be doing the sewing. After that, it was ready to be embroidered.

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The final touch was adding a wrap-around stitch to the cap sleeves and around the collar.

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I left the cut bottom of the shirt as is, since I really enjoyed the ruching effect it was given by the tension of the embroidered stitches.

t-shirt-after

Blog Post #1

September 26th, 2017

Blog Post #1: Recap of the first Day, Meet our Team!

Sarah L, Aviva G, Sarah S, Sehara G

For our team project, we created a skirt of memories. All the members of our team contributed a T-shirt that served as a sentimental representation of our transition to college students: mainly, how we will move into this new chapter of our lives while still holding onto the previous ones. Sarah Ls’ T-shirt was one which she made herself in camp when she was ten years old. Being in college now, she looks back fondly at her youth in summer camp. She is determined to take the happiness and enthusiasm she displayed as a young girl in summer camp and bring that to the professional setting she is now in. Aviva donated a shirt that was given to her by her older sister who has since moved away. Once her sister moved away, Aviva saw her less frequently, and both she and her sister had to put in effort to make those reunions happen. Even though Aviva being busy with college life adds to this difficulty, she is determined to not leave her relationship with her sister behind. The T-shirt Sarah S. contributed is once which while volunteering at  traveling camp. While homework now takes up a significant amount of Sarah’s time, she will not let this stop her from volunteering regularly as she did before the transition to college life. Sehara’s T-shirt was given to her by a friend from before college. While a big part of college life is the social aspect and making new friends, Sehara is committed to staying in touch with friends from her childhood and younger years, and nurture those relationships while fostering new ones. Together, we used T-Shirts to create a project that represents what we are determined not to leave behind while making the exciting transitions to college life. In addition, we chose a skirt specifically, because of a religious dress code we all share that entails us wearing skirts. We are proud of our culture and happy to express that.